Royal Hudson Cab Ride
by Harry Liddell

North Vancouver to Squamish 1980

A sunny spring morning at North Vancouver Station, and a sense of pleasurable anticipation; after a lapse of almost forty years, an old friend awaits at the platform's end. In their day the backbone of the CPR passenger fleet, the "Royal Hudson" class were named after the 1939 Royal tour when one of them had hauled the Royal Train on its transcontinental journey; today, I was to ride behind the sole working survivor.

From early childhood I had been fascinated by pictures of North America and its railroads, their enormous, rugged locomotives most of all. Thus a wartime posting to Canada came as a gift from the Gods, and first encounters in the Eastern Provinces with the Canadian National's huge no-nonsense specimens were every bit as satisfying as hoped for. However, later acquaintance with the Canadian Pacific was to show that not just in Britain were there significant differences between competing companies, for these two transatlantic giants were distinct from each other in many ways. Against the CN's black motive power and dark green passenger cars those of the CPR were a universal maroon, while their engines, unlike most others in N. America, were relatively uncluttered with external appurtenances. The Royal Hudson class, with a smoothly cased boiler carrying little more than brass bell and cleanly cowled stack were especially neat in this respect, and worthy members of the mighty edifice that was the CPR; their virtue enhanced by embossed crowns at the forward ends of the valanced running plates, a privilege granted after the aforementioned Royal Tour. True, there were larger and even more elegant members of the steam tribe elsewhere on the continent (the huge and magnificent GS4's of the Southern Pacific came to mind, and yes the Royal Hudsons were a trifle potbellied), but these others were far away and so the CP specimens became firm favourites. They were, after all, superb engines, able to run hard and fast over their homeland's endless distances, and the far, wailing cry of that whistle haunts me to this day.

Nearing the platform end I became apprehensive that this reunion, once thought to be an impossible dream, might prove a disappointment. But there was no cause for worry; no.2860 glittered magnificently in the morning sun, its handsome maroon and black livery a welcome contrast to wartime's remembered drabness, the planished steel boiler casing quite dazzling. Its whistle stood prominently on the boiler's side instead of hiding in the stack fairing, whilst oil was obviously the fuel rather than coal, but otherwise nothing had changed. I daydreamed the years away, back to far-off times; maybe others of the CPR's once- vast family were also close at hand? Two diesel units rudely shattered any illusions on this score as they bellowed slowly past on an adjoining track, dragging an apparently endless string of freight cars through station limits.

I had an introduction to one of the loco crew, but the engine was deserted; indeed, even the fire seemed to be out. Turning reluctantly to board the train, I accosted an overalled figure walking towards me. Fortunately he was the right one, so no time was lost in acceding to his affable invitation to "climb aboard" into a spacious vestibule-type cab* provided with three comfortable seats; quite a contrast to the exiguous comfort, or lack of it, on home engines. Large sliding windows gave an airy aspect, while doors in the front of the cab allowed access to the running plates. Feedwater heat, water pump and fuel oil controls for the fireman, with power reverser and radio for the engineer, were features unfamiliar to British eyes, whilst a multiplicity of gauges and a mysterious black box adjacent to the throttle added to the complication. This latter was, in fact, a device enabling remote control of any diesel units that might be cut in between no.2860 and its train, a procedure used on those occasional trips when additional power might be required. The air pump thumped now & then, but otherwise silence prevailed; steam pressure was some way below the red-lined 275 psi mark. "Guess I'd better light up" said my mind-reading friend, throwing a piece of burning waste into the firebox and setting the oil feed controls. He was answered by a reassuring "woomph" as the atomised oil ignited, so that in no time at all pressure was rising to its appointed level.

On being told of my youthful days in Canada, he said "waal, I guess you may as well stay here to Squamish if that's OK with the Hogger"** , going on to explain that he and his mate Frank were both qualified engineers (steam) and that it was Frank's turn to drive outbound today. As if on cue a stocky and slightly intimidating figure appeared in the doorway, dressed in a denim jacket of highly esoteric design; after gruff but ready assent to my presence, he then busied himself with preparations for departure. These included an obligatory brake test, and the time- honoured ritual of both enginemen agreeing the contents of the train orders; thus our train, no.3 with engine no.2860, was to "go into the hole" at Brunswick to meet train no.18 with engine no.720. This completed, the orders were clipped to the backhead and Lea (the fireman) stuffed cotton wool into his ears, offering some to me also. I declined, being determined to enjoy this unique experience to the full, but there was to be the odd occasion later when I wondered if I had been wise.

The first occurred almost immediately. Following the highball*** , in the form of a burst of incomprehensible jargon from the radio, Frank tugged the whistle cord and eased the throttle fractionally open. In response, there followed a deafening roar of steam from open cylinder cocks as we inched slowly forward; I had forgotten that, "over here", drain cocks vented rearward. Mercifully they were soon closed, after which we chugged at a snail's pace through the west yard. Even by Lion's Gate bridge the speed was still funereal, this being maintained as the track curved away from the waterfront and climbed gently through a residential area of superior aspect.

We were now entering West Vancouver and, with the engine nicely warmed up at last, the hogger yanked the throttle way back; from my seat behind the fireman I watched our blasting column of exhaust fling a tree's overhanging branch violently upwards, the powerful chime whistle sounding loud for the first of many grade crossings. Indeed as the journey progressed Frank proved himself no mean whistle artist, rendering many spine- tingling variations on the standard "long-long-short-long" warning theme.

The rest of that climb through the residential suburbs is a jumble of vivid memories: of people of all ages, from infancy to antiquity, waving from gardens, from roadsides, from cars waiting at crossings; of Lea maintaining rock-steady pressure and water level by skilful manipulation of his controls; of a man on a footbridge covering his ears as we roared beneath; but, most of all, of a sensation of irresistible power and majesty as that superb engine forged its way upgrade, its resonant chimes and fierce, whiplash exhaust giving awful warning to mere hoi polloi of Royalty's imminent approach. Indeed, the privilege of sitting comfortably ten feet or more above rail level during this regal progress simply provided a further sense of superiority over ordinary mortals. But it was too good to last; unknown to me, this was the best alignment of the entire route, and after barely two miles of headlong progress we encountered the reverse curvature which was to persist for most of the remaining distance. Speed was accordingly reduced somewhat, and we continued to climb at about 30 mph with further easements from time to time for some especially sharp curves.

From now on we travelled through scenery that was beautiful beyond belief; woods in the fresh green of spring with many flowering trees, azaleas and rhododendrons in full bloom, and the bright sun highlighting other innumerable wild flowers. Moreover, to cap it all, I was enjoying this arcadian journey not in a mere road vehicle, but on board a famous survivor from another, more gracious age of travel; indeed, it resembled nothing so much as an episode from that most magical of childrens' books, H.R. Millar's "Dreamland Express".

As the climb continued, the ground slowly fell away on our left but rose to the right, so that the track ran on a shelf cut from the hillside. At the same time we slowly changed heading from west to northeast; however, due to the mass of trees and general vegetation this was not apparent until the slope on our left became increasingly precipitous and the mouth of Burrard Inlet came into view. Giving marine access to Vancouver at its east end, to the west it runs into the strait between Vancouver Island and the mainland. The prospect became ever more superb, with the Nanaimo ferry departing from Horseshoe Bay terminal a few hundred feet below; while the sparkling blue waters of Howe Sound stretched away to distant mountains behind the far shore.

Harry in the cab of the 2860

Cab.jpg  Now and then ravines were crossed  on narrow, spindly viaducts which  appeared far too frail to support our  massive weight; and, since the deckings  were only marginally wider than the  track itself, nervous glances downward  failed to discern any visible means of  support----one looked straight into  boulder- strewn stream beds thirty or forty feet below. But eventually the track levelled off and, drifting along our curvaceous line of rail and then rounding one more spur, we arrived at what presumably was Brunswick. Ahead the track divided, the switch set for the outer loop with the inner (main) line being occupied by train no.18 headed by no fewer than five diesels. Coming abreast of the lead unit we received a jocular greeting from its crew, to which Lea responded with a squirt from the hosepipe. This brought wails of distress from the opposition, but Frank seemed to approve for he continued to chuckle over the incident as we trundled past the freight's interminable length, until at last its caboose came into view and with it the end of the loop. At this point a smartly uniformed trainman appeared in the cab. I asked Lea where he had come from: "over the tender from the baggage car" he replied, "he will go forward and set the switch for us". Opening the door ahead of Lea the trainman walked along the running plate and, dropping off the front of the pilot, ran ahead to the switch stand where he pulled the lever round to set the road. Lea called the OK as the red disc swung to face us, Frank cracked the throttle fractionally further open, and we coasted slowly through the switch, once more back on single track. Continuing thus for a minute or two until a disembodied voice from the radio informed us that the trainman had reboarded "on the fly", we then accelerated slowly to about 25 mph; quite fast enough in view of the tortuous twenty or so miles awaiting us.

Having passed the summit level of about four hundred feet, our inclination henceforth was gradually downwards but with a pronounced switchback a few miles prior to Squamish. For the greater part of this distance we clung vertiginously to what was now no more than a very narrow ledge cut from the cliff face, whilst simultaneously snaking through an interminable succession of reverse curves of quite extraordinary severity. Looking aft it was often impossible to see anything of our twelve car train; ahead, as curve succeeded endless curve, it seemed unbelievable that our huge engine could negotiate them without derailment. Each right-hander aroused apprehension of imminent disaster and, peering along the boiler barrel into empty space, I was uneasily aware of the menacing waters of Howe Sound lapping far below. Again & again we headed inexorably towards the abyss, then slowly- ---Lord how slowly----the boiler's vast length would swing round to follow the unseen rails towards the next inevitable left- hander; and, should one reflect on the merits of single-line control by means of train order and radio, it was as well to have faith in the system.

After a period of this corkscrew-like progress, the line swung inland for no apparent reason onto a tangent that inclined visibly upwards. During the earlier part of the journey there had been discussion between the enginemen as to when to "use the sand", which had me totally baffled. Now however, all became clear as Frank pulled the throttle right back through its full 90 degree arc and Lea commenced scooping sand through an aperture in the backhead, obtaining this commodity from a small bunker at the rear of the cab. The reason for his cotton wool was now made dramatically obvious, a furiously boiling column of steam and smoke rocketing skyward with a decibel count that awoke the echoes. With every scoopful the vast cloud of exhaust blackened angrily, indicating the sand's effectiveness in clearing the tubes of soot, and a huge billowing mass of darkened vapour trailed back over the train. Overcome with awe, and uncertainty that all this was really happening, for the second time that day I had to pinch myself hard.

Our speed was slowly increasing despite the grade, but Frank did not let up and the stack's ferocious, staccato cannonade became almost unendurable. Approaching a gentle curve to the right, I became aware of Lea mouthing silently beside me. His silence was of course relative, the shattering din making speech impossible, but as a close-fitting tunnel mouth loomed up I divined his intent and joined him and Frank in the centre of the cab. Near-darkness was instantaneous; thick coils of smoke swirled in through the open windows, brushed by, and exited via the doors and roof vent, while from the firebox inspection hole a blinding pencil of incandescent light glared back from the inferno within. And so, as if in some Dr. Who time & space adventure, the three of us stood together on that swaying platform, the brass-cased backhead gauges winking through the stygian gloom and the only hint of forward progress being the muffled exhaust, now reduced to a harsh chatter. Indeed I began to suspect that our magical machine might continue for ever on its journey through these fuming nether regions, the eventual destination perhaps Dante's Inferno; the smiling world of sun, sea and forest now seemed utterly remote.

But reality was not far away, and soon there was a sensation of "nosing over" accompanied by rapidly growing light. Frank moved swiftly to close the throttle as we burst out of the tunnel, causing a mini-blowback from the inspection hole, while Lea adjusted his oil & water feeds to suit. Thus, in complete contrast to the Satanic conditions prevailing moments before, we drifted downgrade in near silence broken only by a faintly knocking big end. The waters of Howe Sound twinkled merrily on our left, marked here and there by the sails of small boats; was it only seconds before that we had undergone trial by brimstone?

The slow descent continued almost to the water's edge, where the Sound had lost its bluish tint, looking rather grey and turning to a brackish brown at the shore line. Here and there occasional logs floated aimlessly, no doubt broken away from the large rafts of lumber towed down from upcountry; indeed, a sawmill was distantly visible on the far shore. The curvature eased and grade crossings were once more a hazard, so that the whistle was in frequent use; further inland, snow-covered peaks warned that inhospitable terrain lay not far behind the narrow coastal tract. A few minutes later, bell tolling mournfully, we crossed the main highway into Squamish station and came to a laboured stand, the engine pulling under light steam against the brakes. Odd to British eyes, this is a standard transatlantic practice which helps avoid the snatch endemic to the Janney coupler.

The turbogenerator whined softly, accompanied by much thumping from the air pump; ahead, the track curved tantalisingly out of sight towards the distant mountains. Frank set the power reverser in preparation for the next move, while Lea rather pointlessly hosed down the footplate. I inspected myself surreptitiously; no smudge of soot, no trace of any dirt whatever, so I asked him what he was about. "Old habits die hard" he laughed, but surprisingly allowed that he found working on no.2860 far, far cleaner than on diesels. "Those ******* things drip oil everywhere, you are filthy at the end of a day's work" he said, "but on this beauty I could wear my best suit". So much for the abuse heaped on "dirty, old-fashioned steam", however, it must be allowed that my condition might have been less pristine had the Hudson been coal fired.

After some more gobbledegook from the radio, Frank tugged the throttle gently and we backed slowly over the highway again into a siding adjacent to the town park; time for refreshment for man and machine. So down to ground level for a farewell photo, during which one of the pops lifted deafeningly, steam roaring to waste. This earned Lea some good-natured chaff from his mate, for with the finesse of control afforded by oil firing such an event should never occur; probably it was my fault for interfering with their routine.

Leave-taking completed I watched them chug slowly away, the nostalgic clang of the bell fading into the distance. There was a distinct sensation of being on cloud 9; had the last two incredible hours really happened? During the ensuing picnic lunch I reflected on my good fortune, all the more wonderful for being so totally unexpected; there had been brief footplate trips in the past, but this had been something else entirely, an experience to cherish for the rest of my life.

The return journey was inevitably something of an anticlimax, even though I rode most of the way in the open-sided observation car near the head of the train. The grades were longer but less steep than on the outward run, so that for the locomotive it was more a case of steady pulling rather than brief spurts of furious energy; besides, the enginemen had changed places and it was possible that Lea did not favour hard driving (vide his cotton wool). The weather had turned cloudy with occasional showers, necessitating retreat to the adjacent Pullman from time to time. At Brunswick the switch was lined for the main, and as we snaked round the bends it began to appear that there was to be no meet this time. But I was wrong, for on rounding the final curve there stood another steamer just inside the loop; on its own, to be sure, and considerably smaller than our main-line giant, yet undoubtedly in steam and very much alive. So flabbergasted that I quite forgot to point my camera, I failed even to register very much about it other than its obvious CPR provenance. Had it not been for the reaction of other passengers and the cheery exchange of greetings between engine crews (no nonsense with the hose this time!), I would have thought it a hallucination; was not the species steam supposed to be virtually defunct, yet here were two of the breed in excellent health?

On arrival back at North Vancouver there was no time to make enquiries, and for some years this second engine remained a mystery. However, close study of the US railway press eventually elicited the fact that it was a CPR Consolidation (2-8-0), kept in reserve against no.2860's non-availability. No doubt I had seen it on a test run, so I count myself doubly fortunate----a fitting end to a most memorable outing.

As time passes, I often recall that day with gratitude: to Providence for allowing it, to our friend Celia who gave me the introduction, and to Frank and Lea for permitting me to share their private world. And, should I ever be assailed by doubts as to whether it might, after all, have been only a dream, then in addition to my few photographs I can peruse the train orders which Frank presented to me at the conclusion of the most memorable and rewarding journey of my life.

*A completely enclosed cab with solid rear wall; more suited to the cold Canadian climate than the conventional open-backed type.
**Railroadese for engineer (driver); from "Hog", a term used (probably by overworked fireman) to describe engineers greedy for power.
***Another piece of prehistoric slang still in common use, the equivalent of our "Right Away".

For the full size images, click on the photos.


Frank & Lea

Cab view of 2860 at Brunswick Siding

2860 in Squamish

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